Sep 3, 2024

Canine Corner: How to prevent hunting short

By Josh Miller

Presented by SportDOG® Brand 

(Originally published in Fall 2024 issue of California Waterfowl)

Don’t push your dog's limits before it's ready.

We all want a retriever that runs nice, straight lines and scoops up birds as far away as the eye can see. The truth is that it takes time and dedication to get to that point. Sometimes, even though you think you’ve done everything right during countless hours of training, your dog will stop short of making it all the way to the bumper or bird. He might even stop running, turn around and look back at you as if to say, “What am I supposed to do now, boss?” These issues can be countered with a proactive training approach.

First, understand that hunting short or, in the case of checking back with you (which is also known as “popping”), has a lot to do with your dog’s confidence. One thing we see over and over again when a new dog comes to our kennel is that he doesn’t know how to retrieve anything beyond a very short distance, like 20 or 30 yards. He’ll run out for a retrieve, but when he gets to that 20- or 30-yard mark, he’ll stop and start searching. This is a problem that we as owners create when we throw bumpers at the same distance day after day. We’re basically conditioning the dog to think that every retrieve will be that distance. So, what happens when you go hunting and hit a mallard that sails 100 yards before going down? Your dog is going to hunt short because he’s never had to make a retrieve at that distance.

Stretching out the retrieves during training and giving your dog opportunities for success at longer distances is key. If he’s doing well on long retrieves, the short ones become really easy. If you have someone else to throw marks for you, that’s the ideal training situation. You’re in charge of controlling the dog; let your partner deal with the throwing. If you have trouble getting a helper to throw for you on a consistent basis, launchers can be another solution. You can use the remote launcher and transmitter in conjunction with compatible throwers, or you can use a launcher basket set at an angle to make a nice, high, easy-to- see toss.

Regardless of what method you use to throw marks, the key to building confidence is to work your way out in increments. Make sure he is successful at 20 yards before you go to 30, and successful at 30 before you go to 40, and so on. I’m often asked at what age a dog should be retrieving at certain distances. For example, I’ll be giving a seminar and someone will ask, “Should my 7-month-old Lab be able to do a 100-yard retrieve?” That’s impossible to answer. Your dog’s ability, along with the frequency and consistency with which you train, will determine when he’s ready for longer marks. The main thing is to not push the limits before your dog is ready. Success at each distance is a must before you advance to a longer challenge.

It’s one thing to stop running a straight line and hunt short, but that occasionally can turn into the popping problem I mentioned earlier. You never want your dog to stop and look back for guidance unless you’ve stopped him on purpose so you can give him a hand signal.

What can you do to head off this problem besides using lots of successful repetitions? I suggest using mowed paths to help guide your retriever right to the bird. The bumper is visible, so there’s no reason for him to question what his goal is. Your dog is learning that when you send him out on a line, there’s always going to be a bird to retrieve. Always. When he’s running hard on a path at long distances, transition the drills back into increasingly heavier cover. If your dog has a strong retrieving instinct and really enjoys his work, using the mowed-path drills to build his confidence back up usually cures popping.

Lastly, be realistic about what you need your dog to be capable of. While field trial handlers frequently run their dogs at unbelievable distances, many of those situations are far beyond what you would expect or need your personal waterfowl dog to do. Work with realistic expectations, train frequently and have patience. You will be happy with the results.